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As I look up from the tired paperback I`ve already read twice in the last two weeks, I stare morosely at the snow coming down outside my hut, wondering for the 47th time how I ended up here. My hunt was so long ago, I`ve almost forgotten how I came to be in this isolated high mountain valley. Ending up trapped by the weather for almost three weeks at 13,000 feet was not exactly what I`d had in mind when I planned this hunt, and there`s no sign of it improving enough to enable our rescue. With all the time in the world, I meditate on how it all started...
Arrival in Moscow
What a contrast, I thought, as I stood on the curb in the frigid wind, awaiting my ride from the airport in Moscow to my hotel. Barely a month earlier, I had returned from a sweltering Central African Republic after a challenging yet successful hunt for Lord Derby eland. Now I was anticipating an even more rigorous adventure in pursuit of the mystical Marco Polo, often referred to as the holy grail of wild sheep. I`m the first to admit, I`m not exactly a sheep hunting maniac; in fact, this was to be my first bona fide mountain sheep hunt, so I was starting at the top, in a way. But since I enjoy painting these noble animals so much, I figured it was high time I went to experience them first- hand.
Arrival in Moscow
What a contrast, I thought, as I stood on the curb in the frigid wind, awaiting my ride from the airport in Moscow to my hotel. Barely a month earlier, I had returned from a sweltering Central African Republic after a challenging yet successful hunt for Lord Derby eland. Now I was anticipating an even more rigorous adventure in pursuit of the mystical Marco Polo, often referred to as the holy grail of wild sheep. I`m the first to admit, I`m not exactly a sheep hunting maniac; in fact, this was to be my first bona fide mountain sheep hunt, so I was starting at the top, in a way. But since I enjoy painting these noble animals so much, I figured it was high time I went to experience them first- hand.
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| outside Red Square |
I was whisked through the wet streets of Moscow to my hotel, where I met up with Alex, a fellow hunter from Chicago who would be sharing the camp in the Pamir mountains. We began the long process of actually getting to the hunting area, located on the northeastern edge of Tajikistan. The twelve hour time change took it`s toll on me, as did the endless waiting and reshuffling of schedules. We took a tour of Moscow while we waited for our Tajik visas, which included a visit to the local zoo at my request, where I hoped to see some sheep in captivity...no luck. After a couple days in Moscow, we were more than ready to fly on to Bishkek, Kyrgyzstan, where we hoped to wrangle a helicopter ride to the hunting camp. I was happy to have this option, as the car ride into Tajikistan was riddled with military check points and delays...as it turned out, using a chopper proved to be a mixed blessing!
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| the ill-fated helicopter |
I had originally scheduled my hunt for mid-November, when the rut was on and the sheep looked their best, but I never received the precious U.S. CITES import permit until late December, at which point I rebooked my hunt for the first two weeks of March with Pat and Nick Frederick of Americana Expeditions out of Edmonton, Alberta. Our 4-hour flight from Moscow arrived in Bishkek at 3:30 am, and we spent the wee hours in the airport lounge, awaiting our flight on the Mi-8 Russian helicopter. There`s always lots of waiting to be done in this part of the world! After loading up with supplies, food, and several of the camp staff, we left on a 2-hour flight to Osh, where we refueled and took on more provisions, and then departed for Tajikistan.
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| yikes...almost 20,000 feet high! |
The views along the way were breathtaking; the Tian Shen and Pamir mountains were beyond belief, jagged, incredibly steep snow-covered pinnacles as far as the eye could see. A rather daunting prospect, I thought, as I took my daily Diamox tablet for high altitude. Although much quicker than a journey by jeep, the non-pressurized helicopter ride took it`s toll on some as we flew eye to eye with peaks well over 20,000 feet high. I wondered where in all this snow, ice and rock one would find life.
Then, as we banked down into a steep valley, there were suddenly tracks everywhere in the snow, and I caught a glimpse of several sheep dashing through the drifts beneath us, and another dozen as we circled the camp. We had arrived!
Then, as we banked down into a steep valley, there were suddenly tracks everywhere in the snow, and I caught a glimpse of several sheep dashing through the drifts beneath us, and another dozen as we circled the camp. We had arrived!
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| the main camp structure |
Day 1
Although it`s frustrating, we have to stay put in camp for at least a day to acclimate a bit. Balankik camp is not as high as some sheep camps, but high enough to make you feel it. I`ve been reading and wandering around camp, anxious to get going. I feel good right now; Alex has left on a walk with one of the guides to check out the area. The camp is definitely on the rustic side, consisting of several whitewashed mud huts built into the hillside, a central dining building, and lots of snow and rocks. Needless to say, the bathroom facilities didn`t take women into account! Yikes. I`ve been given my own hut, which is nice. I`ve tried to make it into a home away from home for the time being.
Although it`s frustrating, we have to stay put in camp for at least a day to acclimate a bit. Balankik camp is not as high as some sheep camps, but high enough to make you feel it. I`ve been reading and wandering around camp, anxious to get going. I feel good right now; Alex has left on a walk with one of the guides to check out the area. The camp is definitely on the rustic side, consisting of several whitewashed mud huts built into the hillside, a central dining building, and lots of snow and rocks. Needless to say, the bathroom facilities didn`t take women into account! Yikes. I`ve been given my own hut, which is nice. I`ve tried to make it into a home away from home for the time being.
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| the Spanish hunters arriving |
It`s hard adapting to how they do things here; everyone is pretty quiet, and we don`t really know what the schedule is or what`s expected. Yuri Mattison, a well-known Tajik sheep guide, is in charge here, and hopefully he`ll let us know how it all works. There are two horses in camp, and I guess that`s how we`ll get around on our hunt; there`s no vehicles here.
The helicopter made a return trip today, dropping off two Spanish hunters, Juan and Luis, and their booking agent Bruno; thank goodness they speak some English!
The helicopter made a return trip today, dropping off two Spanish hunters, Juan and Luis, and their booking agent Bruno; thank goodness they speak some English!
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| headed down the valley |
Day 2
OK, I have to eat those words about feeling great--I`m definitely NOT in sheep shape! I was told at breakfast that I would be going down along the Balankik river with a horse and four guides. We set off at 8 am; I heaved my not so insignificant bulk onto the thin bay pony, and he wasn`t too happy about it, poor thing. The weather was overcast but not too cold, and everyone (except me) struggled through the knee-deep snow. The men broke trail, and the pony man and I followed, the horse often lurching belly-deep between hidden rocks. I took in the incredible views of the mountains on either side of the frozen river, observing several small groups of Marco Polo sheep above us on the slopes, mostly ewes and lambs. The few times I had to dismount and walk, I noticed that I had a lot of trouble breathing, and that started to worry me a bit. I had strained my lungs previously on several high-altitude deer hunts, and they`d never fully recovered. I wasn`t sure how they`d do on this hunt...I soon found out.
OK, I have to eat those words about feeling great--I`m definitely NOT in sheep shape! I was told at breakfast that I would be going down along the Balankik river with a horse and four guides. We set off at 8 am; I heaved my not so insignificant bulk onto the thin bay pony, and he wasn`t too happy about it, poor thing. The weather was overcast but not too cold, and everyone (except me) struggled through the knee-deep snow. The men broke trail, and the pony man and I followed, the horse often lurching belly-deep between hidden rocks. I took in the incredible views of the mountains on either side of the frozen river, observing several small groups of Marco Polo sheep above us on the slopes, mostly ewes and lambs. The few times I had to dismount and walk, I noticed that I had a lot of trouble breathing, and that started to worry me a bit. I had strained my lungs previously on several high-altitude deer hunts, and they`d never fully recovered. I wasn`t sure how they`d do on this hunt...I soon found out.
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| look close; the four rams are in the center |
After three hours, we came upon a larger group of sheep, feeding amongst the boulders just above the valley floor. It was a mystery to me what they were eating--all I could see was snow, rocks, and a few coarse sprigs of long-dead twigs and grass, seemingly nothing nearly substantial enough to sustain these animals. I dismounted and we stalked closer to look the sheep over. I was glad I`d brought my spotting scope, which we set up on a boulder to take a look. I didn`t expect to see any rams, as the rut was long over and the sheep were supposedly segregated in ram and ewe groups. But then we spotted four rams standing together below the others on a ledge just above the valley. My guide Sali became animated, and I took a closer look at them. All four stood nicely in a bunch, staring at us across a deep ravine. I quickly ranged them at 435 yards, certainly not an impossible shot for some, but not in my comfort zone, especially since they were so tightly grouped. So I took my time looking them over. It was apparent that there weren`t any whoppers in the group; they were all nice, average-looking rams. One had slightly longer horns than the others and, important to me as an artist and taxidermist, what looked like a fairly nice cape. But I hesitated, not sure what to do. Thoughts swirled through my head...only two horses for four hunters, my struggles for breath, and the assurance from my outfitter that if I got my sheep early, a quick helicopter flight out could be arranged. The rams turned and ambled around a corner, and I decided to try to get closer.
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| he's beautiful, and he's coming home with me! |
A half-mile and several breathless ravines later, I knew that if I saw that ram again, I would try for him. I was wheezing and gasping at this point, pretty worthless for a much longer hike, when Sali motioned to me and pointed below in the valley. There they were, walking single file, the bigger ram in the back. I ranged it at 347 yards, plopped my trusty Tikka .280 on a convenient boulder, and when he stopped to look back at us, I fired. They trotted off up the valley, but he didn`t make it 50 yards before piling up in the deep snow, dead. It was high-fives all around, and once I`d caught my breath, we headed down to him, floundering thigh-deep in the snow. Once I got there I collapsed gratefully next to him, rubbing my fingers through the thick coat and over the golden horns. His neck mane was long and white, although I noticed the hair was very brittle and delicate, already coming out in handfuls. Once the pony man arrived, we took lots of photos and they quickly set about skinning the ram, as the weather was taking a decidedly nasty turn with lots of wind and blowing snow.
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| Alex with his ram |
They packed the horns, cape and some of the meat on the pony, and we began the five hour trek back to camp. I was very grateful that they let me ride the horse back, although he made his feelings pretty clear, bucking whenever the going got tough. But I knew I would NEVER have made it those ten miles without that horse. It was very cold on the ride back, and walking to warm up didn`t help, since I couldn`t go more than 100 yards without stopping to cough, hack and wheeze. We finally made it back just before dark, and two hours later Alex arrived, having shot a very nice ram up a different valley. He used snowshoes, absolutely necessary to navigate the even deeper snow up higher. So--we had our two sheep on the first day of the hunt!
Day 5
Sure can`t complain about not getting enough sleep around here. I`m in bed by 9 pm, and up at 7 or 8. The Spanish hunters have left for a spike camp, and although the weather continues to be balmy and nice, it seems that the chopper isn`t coming today either. Nevertheless, I was a bit surprised when suddenly one of the guides was at my door, all dressed in white, ready to take me ibex hunting! I felt better today; my lungs have cleared up, so I thought; why not? I rode the other horse this time, and we headed back down the river valley, while I glanced up at the mountain peaks towering above us, knowing that the ibex tend to live a lot higher than the sheep.
Day 5
Sure can`t complain about not getting enough sleep around here. I`m in bed by 9 pm, and up at 7 or 8. The Spanish hunters have left for a spike camp, and although the weather continues to be balmy and nice, it seems that the chopper isn`t coming today either. Nevertheless, I was a bit surprised when suddenly one of the guides was at my door, all dressed in white, ready to take me ibex hunting! I felt better today; my lungs have cleared up, so I thought; why not? I rode the other horse this time, and we headed back down the river valley, while I glanced up at the mountain peaks towering above us, knowing that the ibex tend to live a lot higher than the sheep.
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| they like it high! |
The camp skinner had gone ahead on snow shoes, and he met up with us, indicating that there were ibex above us. I took my scope and struggled up the slope, where we surveyed a large bedded group of the wild goats, noting several good billies. But they were way above us, relaxed and soaking up the sun. How to get up there? Once again, the horse saved the day; he carried me half-way up, until it got too steep for him, and although it took me a while, I did much better this time, taking it nice and slow, and eventually arriving at the lip of a ravine, with the ibex hopefully still bedded above us. We crawled through the snow, keeping a low profile, and huddled behind a large boulder, sneaking peeks at the resting ibex. Two nice billies lay together, about 240 yards above us, with the rest of the group off to the right. When I was ready, we all stood up and I placed my rifle on the chest-high rock, which made a dandy rest. But they wouldn`t get up! We shouted, whistled, I howled like a wolf; no response. So the pony man waded out into the snow and flailed about, and that did the trick. Both billies stood up, and when the larger one was broadside, I shot, and he dropped in his tracks.
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| the gang! |
The rest took their time meandering up into the rocks, watching us curiously as my guides retrieved the ibex, sliding it downhill to me for photos. He`s not the biggest ibex in the world, just a good decent male, and I`m very happy to have him. I wasn`t quite as big a whimp as I thought!
Day 8
Waiting, waiting, more waiting. At least we managed to clean up a bit; they have a sauna a few hundred yards away from camp, and I could wash up and do a bit of laundry as well. The weather is still holding, sunny and warm, but this can`t last forever. The Spanish hunters have finally shot their sheep, both very nice rams, so we`re all ready to leave. We`ll have to get out tomorrow if we`re to make our flights home.
Day 8
Waiting, waiting, more waiting. At least we managed to clean up a bit; they have a sauna a few hundred yards away from camp, and I could wash up and do a bit of laundry as well. The weather is still holding, sunny and warm, but this can`t last forever. The Spanish hunters have finally shot their sheep, both very nice rams, so we`re all ready to leave. We`ll have to get out tomorrow if we`re to make our flights home.
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| the same view: week 1, and then... |
Day 9
Uh oh...very foggy and snowy today. Wonder what happens now...
Day 11
The snow just keeps coming, and if it`s not snowing, it`s so foggy and cloudy, I can`t see the slopes above camp. There`s no way a chopper could make it here. Thank goodness Yuri has a satellite phone, so we`ve all been able to reach family and friends to tell them about the delay. I had visitors last night; wild hamsters. Cute, I guess, but not when they crawl across your head in the middle of the night. And we had a little earthquake today, which was a strange sensation. I`m feeling upset and stressed by this delay, and bored beyond belief. Should have brought a deck of cards. At least my health has been good.
Uh oh...very foggy and snowy today. Wonder what happens now...
Day 11
The snow just keeps coming, and if it`s not snowing, it`s so foggy and cloudy, I can`t see the slopes above camp. There`s no way a chopper could make it here. Thank goodness Yuri has a satellite phone, so we`ve all been able to reach family and friends to tell them about the delay. I had visitors last night; wild hamsters. Cute, I guess, but not when they crawl across your head in the middle of the night. And we had a little earthquake today, which was a strange sensation. I`m feeling upset and stressed by this delay, and bored beyond belief. Should have brought a deck of cards. At least my health has been good.
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| yet another day in camp... |
Day 14
Really bad news today; the helicopter that brought us in and was supposed to take us out has crashed. Two people were killed, including the pilot, and nine were critically injured. He had 24 people on board with all their gear, too large a load, even for such a big chopper. There were three hunters on board, but I don`t think they were too seriously injured. Apparently that only leaves two working helicopters in Kyrgyzstan, and no one who can operate them at this altitude. Now what?
Really bad news today; the helicopter that brought us in and was supposed to take us out has crashed. Two people were killed, including the pilot, and nine were critically injured. He had 24 people on board with all their gear, too large a load, even for such a big chopper. There were three hunters on board, but I don`t think they were too seriously injured. Apparently that only leaves two working helicopters in Kyrgyzstan, and no one who can operate them at this altitude. Now what?
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| home sweet home...NOT! |
Every day I wake up to gray skies and snow. I feel quite despondent and depressed, especially now that it seems our only way out is gone. Some of the food is running low; we have plenty of meat, of course, and rice or noodles, but it`s getting a bit dull. A snow leopard killed a sheep above camp sometime during the night...I`m keeping an eye out for it, but haven`t seen anything except birds at the kill.
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| the boys going for one more sheep |
Day 18
More snow, and now a forecast for 4-5 more days of bad weather. Man, I don`t know if I can take it. The other hunters are starting to talk about getting help from our respective embassies, but I don`t know if we`d qualify, since no one is dying or injured...yet. We`ve almost run out of coal for heating, so a few of the guys took the horses off to a distant spike camp to fetch some more. Not eating much, just not hungry. A group of 26 rams has moved in across the valley, and there`s one that`s really nice; Juan and Lois are talking about going after him tomorrow. I just hope the weather clears...someday.
More snow, and now a forecast for 4-5 more days of bad weather. Man, I don`t know if I can take it. The other hunters are starting to talk about getting help from our respective embassies, but I don`t know if we`d qualify, since no one is dying or injured...yet. We`ve almost run out of coal for heating, so a few of the guys took the horses off to a distant spike camp to fetch some more. Not eating much, just not hungry. A group of 26 rams has moved in across the valley, and there`s one that`s really nice; Juan and Lois are talking about going after him tomorrow. I just hope the weather clears...someday.
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| what a happy sight! |
Day 21
Finally; a break in the clouds and a peek at the sun. And now, Yuri says a helicopter from Dushambe, Tajikistan is on it`s way!!! Happy day! Gotta pack.
Heading Home
The helicopter arrived around 11 am, and we were underway within minutes, It was just a short 20 minute flight to the well-provisioned hunting camp on Lake Karakul, where a van awaited us for the long drive to Osh. And I`ll be the first to admit, that flight over the high passes was a bit more nerve-wracking this time! Oh, to see fruit, vegetables, a TOILET! Heaven. The van ride to Osh was an adventure; we drove all night, stopping at 8 checkpoints and getting stuck several times in deep snow drifts on the passes, but we made it. We all flew from Osh to Bishkek, where Alex and I waited several days for the flights to Moscow and home.
I arrived home exactly one month after I left. I was very happy to reach the U.S., and my sheep and ibex were cleared easily at customs in Seattle for their trip to the taxidermist. I know now that I will probably never be a sheep nut; I just don`t have it in me. But I`m grateful for the chance to pursue this amazing, beautiful creature, and for the well-earned ideas for new paintings I gained on my hunt. I truly admire those who spend so much time in the pursuit of wild sheep; it can be quite a trial!
Finally; a break in the clouds and a peek at the sun. And now, Yuri says a helicopter from Dushambe, Tajikistan is on it`s way!!! Happy day! Gotta pack.
Heading Home
The helicopter arrived around 11 am, and we were underway within minutes, It was just a short 20 minute flight to the well-provisioned hunting camp on Lake Karakul, where a van awaited us for the long drive to Osh. And I`ll be the first to admit, that flight over the high passes was a bit more nerve-wracking this time! Oh, to see fruit, vegetables, a TOILET! Heaven. The van ride to Osh was an adventure; we drove all night, stopping at 8 checkpoints and getting stuck several times in deep snow drifts on the passes, but we made it. We all flew from Osh to Bishkek, where Alex and I waited several days for the flights to Moscow and home.
I arrived home exactly one month after I left. I was very happy to reach the U.S., and my sheep and ibex were cleared easily at customs in Seattle for their trip to the taxidermist. I know now that I will probably never be a sheep nut; I just don`t have it in me. But I`m grateful for the chance to pursue this amazing, beautiful creature, and for the well-earned ideas for new paintings I gained on my hunt. I truly admire those who spend so much time in the pursuit of wild sheep; it can be quite a trial!